The Design Process - Math

Math, the bogyman of the knitting world! I'll try to explain the best I can, and I hope it is somewhat understandable. Instead of doing everything at once, I'll try to break it down into smaller pieces and only as I work on each section. My numbers tend to change as I'm working anyway, so this is probably the best way to go.

So we're back to the trusty schematic. I've added in a few more numbers since we last saw it:

To start, I needed to decide whether to make the sweater in one piece or three. I decided to make it in three pieces for two reasons: #1 Seams add more stability to a garment and #2 it would be difficult to continue in one piece when I got to the sleeve section.

With that decided, I can now begin to figure out my numbers.

To sum up the process in very simple terms, I need to multiply all the horizontal measurements by the stitch gauge and all the vertical measurements by the row gauge. But with this sweater, it's not quite that easy.

For example - Bottom hem: I want it to be 17 1/2" wide. Multiply 17.5 x 5.5 (st gauge)=96.25 sts. I round this down to 96 sts, but this still doesn't work. My lace stitch pattern is a multiple of 7 + 4 sts. This means that my cast on number must be evenly divided by 7 and then 4 sts need to be added to keep the pattern centered. So I play with my number and come up with 95 sts to cast on (95-4=91 then 91/7=13).

So I have 95 sts to cast on, right? Well, not really. I decided to start the hem with a 2x2 rib whose stitch multiple is 4 + 2 sts. In order to center the rib up correctly, I couldn't do a correct pattern repeat. I decided on 96 sts (k1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1). When I get to the pattern portion of the body, I'll just need to decrease 1 st to get back to 95 sts for the correct pattern repeat. I make a note of this on my schematic so I don't forget.

Next I usually figure out the decrease and increase frequency along the side seams, but since this body is fairly straight, I haven't really decided on the decrease points yet. I decided to cast on and think about where these points may be as I go along.

I cast on for the back on Sunday night and I have about 11" done so far. I haven't quite figured out where I want to start my shaping yet. I'm also wondering if I should start increasing instead of decreasing as I originally planned........hmm. I better decide soon though, I really don't feel like ripping back because I've gone too far!

Stay tuned for more sweater progress and math! Can I hear everyone say "yay! math!"?



P.S. Speaking of numbers changing - at about 5" in I realized that my row gauge was actually 8 rows per inch instead of 7. I did recheck my gauge swatch in the beginning, but it just goes to show that you can't always rely on them 100%. Always check your knitting!

The Design Process - Gauge

Let's talk about gauge. Now I know what some of you are thinking - ugh! not another lecture about gauge! Well, yes and no. When designing a pattern, a gauge swatch is the key to all my numbers. Without it I would be completely lost, have to rip back 50,000 times and would probably be committed to the loony bin before you could say "knit". So let's get started, shall we?

To make sure I get accurate gauge, I try to make my swatches a bit larger than normal - at least 6"x6". When knitting over a larger area, it's easier to knit at a normal tension that is comparable to actually working with a larger piece of knitting. I usually have a pretty good idea how many stitches to cast on to get at least 6" across and if I'm working in a pattern, I make sure to cast on the correct number of repeats + any extra stitches if needed. A larger gauge swatch also makes it easier to learn the pattern so I don't have to rely so much on a chart or written instructions once I get started on the actual garment.


Flame Chevron Stitch in Fable Handknits 100% Baby Alpaca

As you can see, my gauge swatch is all knit up, blocked and ready to be measured. It measures 5.75"x5.25" (32sts x 36sts total) which gives me a gauge of 5.5 sts and 7 rows per inch on US size 5 needles. I always make sure to double and triple check all the measurements and stitch counts - trust me - I found this out the hard way! Patience is key when working with gauge! Even though I'm usually anxious to get started on a new project, I try to let the swatch sit overnight and recheck the measurements when I get home from work. Also, late nights and figuring out gauge don't mix!

So I have some stitch and row numbers to work with, but now what? This is where my rough schematic comes in.

I keep all my design info at hand in a small notebook I carry around everywhere. On the page opposite the schematic I keep all my gauge, needle and stitch information.

As you can see, I only have a few measurements written in for now. They constantly change as I knit the garment and the only thing I really need to worry about for the time being is how many stitches to cast on, how many rows of rib to work, when do my decreases need to start, how many do I have to do and how often. I know that sounds like a mouthful, but it's not too bad, really!

Since I've probably bored you enough talking about gauge, I think I'll save the math stuff for the next installment! Stay tuned!

Two of a Kind

Look for part 2 of "The Design Process" soon, but in the meantime.......

We have 2 finished Anemoi mittens!


Pattern: Anemoi mittens by Eunny Jang
Yarn: Fortissima Socka 1 ball Olive and 1 ball Cream
Needles: Size 0 and 1 dpns
Started: Jan 26th
Finished: Feb 19th

Pattern Notes: I just LOVE these mittens! Unfortunately I finished them just in time for the weather to warm up a bit! It was almost 50 degrees today! I'd hate to even say this, but......I hope we have a few more chilly days so I can wear them! The pattern was pretty straight forward, but I still don't know how Eunny managed to turn the mittens inside out with 2 dpns sticking out of the top to do the 3 needle bind off! The first time was all cursing, the second time I was smart enough to put the stitches on waste yarn. The first time was also done at 2am - not so smart.

And why did my mittens take me so long? That is thanks to the pink thing they are sitting on, and I don't want to talk about it! Let's just say that the pink thing used to be a brown maternity sweater.....in a way. And no, I haven't found a magic way to turn dark brown yarn into pink either.

The Design Process - Inspiration

Welcome to my first installment of a glimpse inside my design process! I will begin with a very short summary of where I find inspiration and then talk a bit about sketching and swatching the initial design. I also include dates so you can get a general idea how long the process can sometimes take.

Working as a full-time designer, I am blessed with having tons and tons of inspiration surrounding me practically 24/7. We subscribe to trend and color services, shop Europe and NYC, and look at magazines. Sometimes I am inspired by a particular stitch, other times by a great silhouette or even by a great yarn.

In this particular case, I was inspired by some beautiful yarn - Fable Handknit's 100% Baby Alpaca. This yarn deserved to be turned into something that was classy and sophisticated, yet fun and up-to-date.

Finally in the beginning of January, I got around to sketching a few ideas here and there. I sketched about 10 designs and let them sit, looking over them occasionally. Finally they were narrowed down to about 4 and left to sit another few days. Usually, I will also get outside opinions of fellow knitters and designers to help me decide on the final project. I don't think the creative process should happen in a total vacuum, and comments from outside sources are a very helpful tool when making my final choice. And the winner was.........

A deep V tunic cardigan with short doleman sleeves (selected Jan 13th):

Once the design was chosen, I set to work trying to find a stitch pattern that both complimented the yarn and the silhouette - which is not always an easy task! After pouring over several stitch libraries, I selected a few to swatch. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. For this particular design, I picked about 5 stitch patterns and 2 worked with the alpaca.





I went for something with a little texture, but with a hint of lace (finished Feb 1st):

The top of the swatch was done in an interesting pointelle/rib like pattern. The bottom is Flame Chevron.

I carried the swatch around with me for about a week before finally deciding on the Flame Chevron. I thought it would work well with the design and add a bit of texture without being overwhelming. I really liked the top pattern also, but felt it might look a bit too busy, thick and vertical for a long tunic. So this stitch will probably become inspiration for another design down the road.

Inspiration - check.
Design - check.
Stitch pattern - check.

Next step: figuring out the gauge, yarn requirements, and the measurements of the finished garment. Stay tuned!

New Design Project

I've been working on a new design for neoknits that I'll actually be able to share! The design has been in the works for a month or so, but I just finalized all the details today.

As I'm working on the project, I hope to be able to explain a little bit about what goes into creating a design, how long the process takes, and what type of snags can taunt you along the way. After being unable to share all my "secret projects" for so long, I hope this will be something that may interest a few of you out there.

So stay tuned! I hope to begin this little "design series" on Monday and update at least 2-3 times each week, depending on my progress. I'm sure other projects might interrupt, but I'll give it a good try!

And no, my other mitten isn't finished yet. Back to knitting!

Brrrrrr! Chilly Weekend!

The temperature just keeps falling, falling, falling and my mittens aren't getting knit quick enough! It took me just a few extra minutes getting out of the house this morning so I could get to work. Who likes 15 degree weather? Not me!

Yesterday, DB and I ventured out into the 28 degree weather to visit the Merchants House Museum and then some lunch and shopping in Soho. If you are into the Edith Warton era, you HAVE to go to this museum. The house was built in 1832 and purchased in 1835 by Seabury Treadwell. The house was sold in 1933 when the last surviving daughter passed away and has been a museum ever since. All the furniture, clothing and linens in the house were owned by the family and are original to the house. It is a time capsule that remained unchanged for almost 100 years while occupied!

Here is a bad picture of the outside, the sun wasn't co-operating and I was too cold to be a perfectionist!


Afterwards, we got a bite to eat and then headed over to Purl Patchwork. I couldn't resist getting some fabric for the Weekender Bag pattern I had bought last summer. I love the little bees and Anemoi does too! The polka dots will be for the lining and the straps.

I think I have become obsessed by sewing again. I spent all weekend looking through Sew U and dreaming of new clothes. I even went so far as to grab my patternmaking book and old notes from class at FIT. But it might be too early to tell, the machine is still yet to come out of the closet. I'll keep you posted on this one!

Mittens and a New Look

I was finally able to change over to the new blogger. Man, this so much easier! I'm in heaven. I was getting a bit sick of all the green anyway. I'm feeling the clean lines now.

I actually had some time this week for "free knitting", knitting for myself that is! This yarn was originally intended for Eunny's End Paper Mitts, but because of the recent cold snap, the Anemoi mittens just seemed much more useful at this time. I started them last Friday night and have made fairly good progress, but I want them done now!

There is tons more stuff going on behind the scenes which have kept my speedy fingers from finishing the mittens quickly. Lots of interesting stuff going on with One Planet, developing swatches for new designs, and sketching, sketching and more sketching!

Sneak Peek

My kids sweater for Lanas Puras is all done! Just need to write up the pattern and send it off. Here's a little sneak peek:



I just love these buttons!

This pattern should be available soon, but in the meantime, you can get your Lanas Puras Melosa fix with this pattern by a certain pretty well known designer. There are going to be some very well dressed kids out there!

Organizing the Fun Way

I finally treated myself to a lovely handmade needle organizer from honeycake design. It is so well made and I am just in love with my new combination case!





I actually didn't have quite as many needles as I thought and thankfully no duplicates! I ended up getting rid of this lovely pile of cardboard and plastic though.


Now that I have a nice place to put them, maybe I should invest in some lovely Lantern Moon Rosewood needles. Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

And in other news, I found out last week that my application to the Association of Knitwear Designers was accepted! Yay!

Sundry Things

First up we have some progress on my next Secret Project for One Planet:


We won't even talk about the fact that this is a "third" sweater. If you have heard me talk about my "every third sweater curse", then you already know what I mean. Luckily, the joy of working with the Lanas totally makes up for having to rip back 11" last week.

And we have our first finished object of 2007!


Shedir designed by Jenna Wilson
Started: Jan 11, 2007
Finished: Jan 14, 2007
Yarn: Rowan Calmer 1 1/4 balls
Needles: Size 3 circs

I made this for DB's Mom, who unfortunately will be using the hat for it's intended purpose. I got the call that she needed this fast last Thursday night and I was hoping to get it done before I left Jersey on Sunday. I finished on Sunday, but not before I left Jersey, so it will be delivered this Friday. I hope she likes it and it brings a little bit of sunshine into an otherwise cloudy time.

Then we have some after Christmas presents for myself:

I scored some Yarn Pirate from One Planet in the Punkin Head colorway


And some new additions to the library courtesy of a gift card from Mom


I love books! I also got Knitting Nature, but it's still at work. I just love Norah's interesting construction techniques and approach to designing.

P.S. One Planet is looking for designers! For more info, go here.

Knitters Against Global Warming Pt. 2

Thanks so much to anyone who has put the button up on their blog. I feel that even if we make one more person more aware to what is going on, it's a very good thing!

I just wanted to post one more time on this issue to share some info from commenters and some links that I found.

- Almost everyone mentioned Al Gore's An Inconvenient Truth. If you haven't seen it - run, don't walk to your nearest Blockbuster! I have to admit I have not seen it, but I am making a point to see it this weekend.

- When searching around this morning, I found Share the Truth. Check it out and while you are there, get some good karma points by following the link to request and make sure Apple carries Gore's movie on itunes.

- With the 2008 presidential election coming up sooner than we know it, Gleek mentioned supporting candidates who are willing to make global warming part of their platform. We need someone who is going to strengthen environmental regulations, not weaken them like the present "W" administration.

- And "allergicmom" dropped a link where you can download the movie for free.

- And finally, follow this link to find the contact info for you senator and congressman. One email or letter is all it takes! Just 5 minutes of your time to help make your voice heard.

Knitters Against Global Warming

I say we seriously have to start a campaign - Knitters Against Global Warming!

It should just not be 70 degrees in NYC on January 7th! This is just not normal!

Of course, we should certainly be most concerned about why this is happining and bug our legislators to pass some laws here - but seriously - we spend so much on yarn, and we can't even wear our sweaters people!!!! For that matter, we really can't wear our scarves, hats or cute mittens either.

I say we start a little campaign - knitters can be strong in numbers and voice! Let's prove it guys! Look, I've even made a button!


Here's what you do:

Write a letter, sign a petition, volunteer, contact your senator and congress people, donate money to environmental groups - do whatever you can - little or big. Let them know we need a tougher commitment to fixing this problem before it's too late!

Remember the planet and your knitted goods are in jeopardy here! Speak out!

2007! Woo!

Hurray for 2007! I'll spare you the details, but 2006 was such a b*tch of year for me personally I am not sad to see it go!

I feel like I've been so productive already:

- I sent off my first sweater and pattern for the maternity knits book.

- I cleaned out the 1800 or so posts from bloglines to start fresh for the new year.

- I got together my application to join the Association of Knitwear Designers.

- I'll be finishing my 2nd maternity sweater tonight to send out tomorrow.

Yay!

I also started another secret project for One Planet. This time I am working with their worsted weight Lanas Puras.


Let me just say that I love, love, love this yarn! It's probably the softest merino I have ever worked with.

I've been thinking about my resolutions for 2007, but I really think that it all comes down to one thing - organizing my time wisely. I did more than I ever thought possible with knitting last year and hope to do even more in 2007. It's all about using time productively and keeping off the darn time sucking internet (or at least that's a start)!

I tried to ask for "the gift of time" on my Christmas list, but it didn't happen!

I bought some yarn for Eunny's Endpaper Mitts yesterday. I hope to be able to fit in a row here and there while working on the "deadline" projects. I just like them so much and need them now!!!

Last Post for the Year

I can't believe 2006 is over already! It has been a trying year for me in so many ways, but there were a lot of good times too.

And looking back on my resolutions for 2006, this one stuck out...

"2) To design more of my own knits"

I can certainly say that I was not without a secret project or two this year! :) I hope the trend continues, but I also wouldn't mind some free time to knit some things for me this time around!

And finally, we end with a meme - I was tagged by Lis before Christmas, but am just getting around to it.

Five Weird Things About Me (though I don't consider them weird at all - it's just how I am!)

1) I'm not only a sweater designer, but a mechanic too! Don't believe me, here take a look:







This is my 1972 Dodge Dart that I started to refurbish a few years ago. Now it's just sitting in DB's yard crying out for attention. I don't really have too much time for it nowadays. It makes me sad to see it unfinished!

2) Sometimes I think I have slight psychic powers.

3) I eat the same thing for lunch every weekday - a turkey burger with goldfish crackers. This boggles the minds of my co-workers, but it makes my life and shopping list easier!

4) I'm either extremely productive or extremely lazy. There is no middle ground.

5) I picked a fiance who is intrigued with little hampsters that sing "Everyone was Kung Fu Fighting". Ok, that's a cop out, but really, I don't think I'm that interesting or weird!

Happy New Year!

Life Can Be Crazy Sometimes

It seems like with all has been happening lately, it feels like forever since my last post! I don't like to mention personal things here too much, but there have been some major health issues with my fiance's Mom and my Grandfather and Grandmother both fell in the same week. Luckily Grandpa was ok (just a few stitches on the noggin), but Grandma didn't fare as well and had to have a pin put in her hip last week. She is in good spirits, but she'll be in therapy for 6-8 weeks. Just way too much to deal with so close to the holidays!

Then I have my year end rush to get my two maternity knit projects out on time. The first is due January 2nd, the other on January 9th. I would love to get them both off before I leave for Jersey on Friday, but I'm not sure that is going to happen.

And to make up for my spotty posting lately, here's some luscious yarn pics:

I apologize for the slightly blurry pictures, it's the crappy work camera!


Lanas Puras worsted in Margarita - for my next design for One Planet


Lanas Puras fingering in Camoflauge (go to the site for a MUCH better picture - the color is gorgeous!)


Some 2 ply cashmere Lis handdyed

And last but not least:

Some more roving to practice my hand spinning

Happy Holidays everyone!

Sapphire Wrap Revealed

And we have another secret revealed!



Sapphire Wrap
by Melissa Wehrle

Difficulty
Intermediate/Advanced

Size
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

Finished Measurments
Chest: 29.5 (33, 37, 41, 44.5, 52, 56)”
Length: 22 (22.5, 23, 23.5, 24, 25, 26)"

Materials
- Black Pearl Yarns (100% Pure Cashmere, 2 oz, 200 yds), 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) skeins Zen Blue
- 1 pair US size 5 (3.75mm) straight
needles or size needed to obtain gauge
- 1 US size 5 (3.75mm) x 20" or longer
circular needle
- Tapestry needle
- 2 stitch holders
- 2 or 3 yds 1 3/8" wide ribbon (Double sided silk used for sample pictured)

Gauge
21 sts and 31 rows = 4"/10cm in Arrowhead Lace Pattern

Pattern is available for download on the sidebar or at One Planet Yarn and Fiber .

P.S. And that same little birdie says if you need the yarn now, there just might be a discount involved with pattern purchase!

I'm on Kpixie!

I'm sooooooo excited! Kpixie is carrying Black Pearl Cashmere and has decided to pick up the pattern line too! So Georgia is up right now along with 3 other patterns from our other talented designers!

I know it stinks that I can't show you some of my finished sweaters right now, not even in little pieces.....but.....I can show you some goodies I have laying around right now.

First we have some luscious Black Pearl cashmere in Espresso that is waiting for the needles.



And look! Handspun!

You Have to See This!

If you don't happen to know of Lolly's blog, and haven't seen this, you really need to go take a look! NPR's ornaments are hilarious!

I finished the KSH maternity sweater! Yay! One down, five to go! Back to work...

P.S. Thanks to everyone who left nice comments about Georgia! You guys are so supportive and I really appreciate it!

Cashmere Reveal

I'm pleased to announce that my first pattern for Black Pearl Yarns is now ready for purchase! You may purchase the instant download pattern on my sidebar or go to One Planet Yarn and Fiber, where they are offering the pattern as both an instant download or hard copy. To buy their beautiful cashmere yarn for this pattern, go here!

Georgia by Melissa Wehrle




Difficulty:
Intermediate

Size:
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

Finished measurements:
Chest: 30 (33, 37, 40, 44, 49, 54)"
Length: 22.5 (23, 23.5, 24, 25, 25.5, 26.5)"

Materials:
- Black Pearl Yarns (100% Pure Cashmere, 2 oz, 200 yds), 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7) skeins Ginger Peach
- 1 pair US size 5 (3.75mm)
straight needles or size
needed to obtain gauge
- 1 US size 5 (3.75mm) x 20"
circular needle
- 2 stitch holders
- Tapestry needle
- 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) yds 5/8" wide
ribbon

Gauge
24 sts and 30 rows = 4"/10cm in
Stockinette St
24 sts and 32 rows = 4"/10cm in
Eyelet Pattern

P.S. Do you really need and want that yarn now? If you email info@oneplanetyarnandfiber.com, a little birdie told me there just might be a discount code available with pattern purchase.

Relaxing Holiday

Ahhhh, there is nothing like a relaxing holiday to rejuvenate and rest up! Turkey day was good and on Friday night we headed back to the city. Usually, I would spend my time in Jersey, but there were a few things we wanted to do in NYC this time around.

On Saturday we went to the New York Botanical Gardens to see the Holiday Train Show.


(Brooklyn Bridge, St. Patricks Cathedral, Olana, detail shot on Vanderbuilt(?) mansion, one train of many, and DB giving the "yay, fun" thumbs up)

The lines were really long and the adults were a bit pushy (hence the "mission accomplished" shot by DB), but a good time was had by all. I was just in awe over the historic buildings of New York worked up in bark, branches, leaves and flowers.

My favs were the Brooklyn Bridge and Olana. They are both great representations of the original.


Olana Fall 2005


Olana miniature

I've also gotten tons of knitting done on the KSH maternity sweater. The front should be done today. I am so happy this has been going a bit faster than expected. I need to get going on the second one soon!

Today I got to catch up on some of my blog reading (only 895 posts to go!) and DB is watching the Jets game. I'm not a football fan, but man, the Jets really have helped my knitting big time! In fact, my IKEA chair and KSH are calling! Happy knitting!